A Local's Guide to Exploring the Real French Riviera

Some things about the French Riviera will never change, like the dazzling light reflecting off the Mediterranean Sea that sparkles like aquamarine. The umbrella pines are also an enduring signature of the region. However, there is a new sense of fresh energy and reinventing itself. Century-old seaside palaces are being reimagined and reborn. Emerging hotels are bringing life to sleepy villages. Young chefs and innovative bakers are transforming classic flavors into mouthwatering neo-Provençal delights. The Côte d’Azur is basking in the glow of this new era.

Yet at its core, the Riviera retains its idyllic, artistically-inspired seaside aura that was so beloved by painters like Signac, Matisse, Picasso, and Bonnard. Luxury, Calm and Pleasure, as depicted in Matisse's 1904 work, remains the prevailing atmosphere. Whether one prefers to socialize luxuriously at the Hotel du Cap in Chanel or spend hours filling their market tote with goods from Nice, there is something for everyone along this vibrant stretch of Mediterranean coast. The only requirement is a spirit of joie de vivre.

Stepping through the gates of the iconic Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc, it becomes clear why this Cap d'Antibes property has long provided refuge to celebrities, world leaders, artists and royalty since the Gilded Age. While maintaining her storied legacy, the celebrated dame continuously reinvents herself. Guests can now enjoy recently redesigned sea-view junior suites in the contemporary Eden Roc Pavilion. Exclusive to hotel patrons is the relaxed yet refined Giovanni's Italian restaurant. World-class pâtissier Tarek Ahamada, most recently at the famed Georges V in Paris, now oversees sweet indulgences. A new Dior Spa debuts, featuring a private beach cabana allowing luxurious massage therapies framed by breathtaking vistas. Under the glimmering Mediterranean sun, the timeless hotel flourishes ever anew with grace, glamour and good taste.

Just east lies the aptly named Grand Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat, a Four Seasons gem discreetly tucked away at the end of a quiet, residential street lined with lavish villas concealed behind towering hedgerows. Guests may choose to reside in splendor within two immaculately restored turn-of-the-century landmarks: Villa Beauchamp stuns with a Cocteau-inspired mosaic bathroom destined to dazzle on Instagram, while intimate Villa Clair Soleil evokes relaxed Provençal charm. For those seeking vibrant retro seaside style, the newly opened Arev Saint Tropez awaits just minutes from the buzzing Place des Lices. Inside its 24 sophisticated suites, saturated hues of red, blue and yellow envelop guests in a design dream courtesy of Madrid's Luis Bustamante. Padel courts and the revival of Saint Tropez's oldest eatery entice, along with a spa featuring a fragrant and local product lineup from natural brand Maison ST incorporating sea salt and herbs from the surrounding region. Opulence and discretion define these special hideaways along the celebrated coast.

Nestled into a rocky precipice along the spectacular Grande Corniche, Ceto, the penthouse restaurant of the strikingly modern Maybourne Riviera, is far more than your average high-end dining destination. Led by Argentinian chef Mauro Colagreco of three-Michelin star Mirazur fame in Menton, this establishment is a seafood sanctum boasting an advanced cold chamber lined with pink Himalayan salt purposely built to age fish for two months to perfection. Another incentive to reserve a coveted table is the breathtaking panoramas of the coast, rivaling any vista this side of paradise. Under the helm of a celebrated culinary master, diners can expect the finest sea fare and Mediterranean vistas unlike anywhere else along the esteemed Riviera shoreline.

In Nice's vibrant Antiques District, the intimate new bistro Onice has earned stellar praise, receiving a coveted Michelin star for its impeccable creations crafted from only the freshest market ingredients. Led by the talented young chefs Florencia Montes and Lorenzo Ragni, diners can expect seasonal dishes at the peak of perfection.

Nice has also cemented itself as a sweet-lover's paradise. In the bustling Vieux Port neighborhood buzzing with galleries, boutiques and cafes, be sure to visit Julien Dugourd's tiny shop run by the former pastry chef of renowned La Chèvre d'Or. Sample his signature trompe l’oeil lemons that explode across social media. Better yet, book well in advance for his private Sunday pastry tastings. Browse Cours Saleya's famous open-air markets to find Mitron Bakery's sustainable offerings from celebrity chef Mauro Colagreco, like fougasse bursting with almonds, raisins and pine nuts or those irresistible citrus tarts. Both savory and sweet temptations abound in this southern French gem.