Luxury fashion's sustainability challenge: can haute couture go green?

As concerns about the environmental impact of fashion rise among consumers, luxury brands are facing increasing pressure to adopt more sustainable practices. 

Marie-Claire Daveu, Global Head of Sustainability at Kering, has been a driving force behind the efforts of Gucci, Balenciaga, and Yves Saint Laurent to reduce their environmental footprint. Faran Krentcil speaks to Daveu about the challenges of transforming legacy luxury houses and whether true sustainability can be achieved at such a large scale.

Under Daveu's leadership, Kering launched an ambitious set of sustainability targets in 2017, aiming to minimize its impact across the value chain. That same year, the Kering Foundation hosted its 15th anniversary gala celebrating this work. A-list guests like Oprah Winfrey, Channing Tatum, and Kim Kardashian dazzled in designer gowns as they learned about the Foundation's efforts combating gender-based violence. While conversations highlighted the Foundation's impact, they also shone a light on Kering's sustainability journey. As temperatures rose inside the event, so too did discussions on fashion's responsibility to protect the environment for future generations. Daveu's interview provides insight into transitioning iconic brands toward an ethical model and creating luxury in a way that is sustainable for people and the planet.

Under Marie-Claire Daveu's guidance, Kering has pushed the entire luxury sector toward greater environmental stewardship. A recent Deloitte survey found 57% of luxury customers now consider sustainability when purchasing designer items. Daveu's influence is seen across Kering's prestigious brands, from Bottega Veneta's critical acclaim to Alexander McQueen's innovative designs. Each house publishes strict sustainability standards for practices like responsible cotton and minimising water usage in craftsmanship.

In 2022 alone, Kering announced ambitious targets and new circular initiatives. The group pledged a 40% reduction in emissions by 2035. That same year, Gucci launched its first Italian circular hub to recycle luxury goods. The Material Innovation Lab, celebrating its 10th anniversary, continues developing cleaner alternatives for materials like leather and silk. Kering also banned all fur use starting in fall 2022.

Through over a decade of visionary green leadership, Daveu has transformed Kering into a sustainability leader driving real change across the luxury sector. Her strategic direction is embedding ethical standards that respect both the environment and heritage of craft needed to create exceptional designer wares for generations to come.

Balancing Creativity and Sustainability in Luxury

Undoubtedly, Kering's top priority as a business is selling products and growing revenue. Pleasing shareholders means delivering trends that captivate pop culture, like Gucci's logo mania made famous by Harry Styles. Balenciaga's sleek looks on Kim Kardashian also spark buying frenzies. The fast pace of trends presents a challenge for sustainability - what happens to a hot pink Saint Laurent jumpsuit after "Barbiecore" fades? Creating new designs requires financial and environmental resources.

While "sustainable capitalism" benefits early adopters like Patagonia, shifting ingrained systems at fashion powerhouses like Kering is an immense undertaking. There will be missteps as circular frameworks replace linear take-make-waste processes ingrained for decades. Through Daveu's leadership, Kering has made tremendous strides but acknowledged there is still progress to be made. The business realities cannot be ignored, but nor can the urgent need to reform luxury production. With commitment and innovation, the hope is brands can continue delighting consumers while lightening their footprint. Sustainability and creativity need not be opposing forces, but the journey to align them is a long one.

Balancing Growth and Sustainability Goals

While Kering has made progress in sustainability, matching increasing demand through circular systems presents difficulties. According to The Business of Fashion, the group's carbon emissions rose 12% in 2022. This highlights the complex realities of scaling ethical practices within hugely popular luxury houses like Gucci and Bottega Veneta. As demand grows, so too does pressure on existing supply chains and resources.

Unlimited growth is at odds with capping emissions long term. This signals the need for even more innovative solutions that not only use renewable and recycled materials but fundamentally rethink production volumes. It also underscores the immense challenge of pushing sustainability transformation at the scale of global luxury powerhouses.

Daveu acknowledges there is still progress to be made. But through commitment and a willingness to constantly improve systems, Kering aims to reconcile demand with environmental stewardship through continuous strategic innovation.