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Live like a literary icon: stay at the Paris hotel where James Joyce completed his masterpiece

Live like a literary icon: stay at the Paris hotel where James Joyce completed his masterpiece

Throughout the 20th century, Saint-Germain-des-Prés served as inspiration for artists seeking tranquility in the bustling City of Light, the legendary and romantic Paris. It’s clear that this charming neighborhood quickly became a meeting place for authors and legends like Balzac, Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir, Hemingway, Manet, Oscar Wilde, Picasso, and James Joyce. They often crossed paths at iconic cafes such as Café de Flore, Café Les Deux Magots, and Brasserie Lipp. The good news is that these places still exist - yes, you can have a coffee at Les Deux Magots although you might have to wait in line. But more than just coffee, you can even stay at the hotel where Joyce wrote his masterpiece novel, 100 years ago.

Nestled in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, occupying the same space where Joyce completed Ulysses, is Pavillon Faubourg Saint-Germain, a recently opened 47-room luxury boutique hotel. Located on a quiet side street on the Left Bank in the 6th arrondissement, the hotel is one of Paris's best-kept secrets and a haven for those seeking refuge. During the pandemic, Managing Director Tim Goddard and architect Didier Benderli renovated the hotel's ground floor and added a glass and stone entrance. The architect particularly enjoys the space, which provides a view through the three distinct 17th-century buildings that make up the hotel, from the library and James Joyce Bar to the restaurant Les Parisiens at the end of the block. He mentioned that it feels like an intimate space that’s just perfect for taking a break from the hustle and bustle when you’re really tired of walking in Paris.

The hotel also pays tribute to James Joyce throughout with the James Joyce Suite being the quietest room in the building. This 753-square-foot suite features a writer's desk and sloped ceilings with views of the picturesque tiled rooftops. Every room is unique with features such as decadent fabrics from Edmond Petit, Nobilis, and Dedar, marble wall panels, brass fittings, and geometric art deco touches. The superior rooms have silky drapes and antique furnishings, and some have a fireplace or Parisian balcony.

In a tribute to Joyce's Dubliners, the hotel's neo-brasserie, Les Parisiens, is named after the book and helmed by chef Thibault Sombardier of Sellae and Mensae fame. The menu is a blend of traditional recipes with a modern twist, and the restaurant maintains the luxury brasserie's code. The decor is chic and inviting, with mosaic floors, black marble tables, large mirrors, neutral-toned velvet banquets, and textured chairs. Because this atmosphere is just perfect to gather around with friends and treat yourself to delectable dishes such as pigeon puff pastry with foie gras, cabbage, and giblet gravy or corn-fed Landes chicken with anchovy, tarragon, and béarnaise sauce, not forgetting Sombardier's delicious paté en croute. Indulge in seasonal delicacies and pair them with a diverse selection of French appellations from the restaurant's eclectic wine list. Additionally, the impressive mosaic flooring in Les Parisiens, created by renowned mosaic artist Florence Berthet Sonsino, is definitely worth noting.

For a pre-dinner cocktail or nightcap, the James Joyce Bar, inspired by English clubs, is the perfect spot. Socialize at the sleek wood-paneled bar or relax on the plush velvet sofas and chairs in shades of blush pink and cobalt blue. The cocktail menu is inspired by the Saint-Germain-des-Prés area and the drinks are just as gourmet as the cuisine, with seasonal rotations. However, to fully experience the Hotel Les Deux Gares, it is recommended to forgo the elevator and instead, use the preserved 17th-century spiral staircase that leads to the underground Spa des Prés. The spa, a former cabaret where poet Léo Ferré began his career, is a rare find for a boutique hotel, making it an additional reason to book a stay. The hotel partnered with CODAGE, a Parisian wellness brand, to offer customized spa treatments that promote mind and body detoxification.

One of the treatments, called "Shopping Break," helps guests relax after a day of shopping at some of Paris' most renowned boutiques. All guests can enjoy the picture-perfect indoor pool, hammam, meditation room, and fitness studio. And if you feel like exploring beyond the hotel, you'll find an abundance of shops and restaurants nearby. L'Ecume des Pages is a great spot for books and journals, while Fragonard Boutique Saint-Germain offers exquisite fragrances. For a sweet treat, check out Debauve & Gallais, a chocolatier that has been around for two centuries and was favored by Marie-Antoinette. For a memorable culinary experience, reserve a table at MARSAN, a two-Michelin-starred restaurant where Chef Marsan par Hélène Darroze serves an extraordinary tasting menu that pays homage to her roots in Landes. The sommelier will impress you with exciting wine pairings, and don't miss the cheese chariot that rolls around for dessert.

Travel
2321 reads
April 7, 2023
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