Tudor's Pelagos 39: blending vintage inspiration with modern functionality

A review of an elegant, luxurious retro-inspired timepiece

Founded in 1946 by Hans Wilsdorf, approximately four decades after he established Rolex, Tudor is a Swiss watch brand that aimed to offer high-quality luxury timepieces at more affordable prices than its renowned sister company. While often considered a cheaper alternative to Rolex, Tudor has been making significant strides over the past decade to establish itself as a loved name in the high-end watches universe.

In this process, one of the brand’s pivotal efforts was the introduction of its Heritage Black Bay collection in 2012, which garnered widespread acclaim and showcased the brand's ability to compete with other prestigious competitors. Although the Pelagos caught the attention of watch enthusiasts over the years, it wasn't until the debut of the new and improved Pelagos 39 that it truly stood out as a must-have timepiece.

So, if you’re curious about a review of the elegant watch, don’t stop reading this article! To maintain transparency, it must be said upfront that we adore this watch, ranking it among the best timepieces we have ever tested. However, we made every effort to remain objective and unbiased while crafting this hands-on review. With that clarification made, let's delve into the watch itself.

Having previously experienced Tudor watches, we are no strangers to the brand's offerings. Tudor timepieces consistently exhibit top-notch craftsmanship, impeccable build quality, attention to detail, and remarkable finishing, and the Pelagos 39 is no exception. From its beautifully uniform brushed finish to the flawlessly executed dial elements, the watch exudes a premium feel, clearly positioning itself as a luxury dive watch—although one that can be dressed down by swapping the bracelet for a textile rubber strap.

However, it's not solely the watch's luxury nature that captivates us. The Pelagos 39, with its numerous minor changes and refinements, sets itself apart as a contemporary dive watch suitable for daily wear. The dial resembles its predecessor, featuring baton markers and square indices at the remaining hours, such a unique characteristic that catches the eye, along with the iconic snowflake-style hands.

The brushed finish of the case and bracelet, coupled with the bold applied indices and unique snowflake hands, ensure this timepiece is instantly recognizable and distinct from its Rolex origins. The very basis that inspired the design of the dive watch that eventually led to the Pelagos.

The Tudor Pelagos 39 boasts a 39mm case meticulously crafted from grade 2 titanium, providing a water resistance of 200 meters. The case features an all-brushed satin finish, exhibiting remarkable uniformity. It includes a steel case back and a screw-down crown made from titanium. With a slim profile, the watch displays a lug-to-lug length of 47mm. Drawing inspiration from vintage dive watches, the Pelagos 39 showcases a minimally protected crown, shielded only by two small nibs. What’s more, a luminous ceramic insert graces the unidirectional rotating bezel. True to its name, the new model introduces a more compact 39mm sizing compared to its predecessor. Additionally, this version omits the dedicated helium release valve found in the larger model. Overall, the case exhibits a sophisticated design approach, striking a balance between simplicity and luxury, infused with vintage style.

But Tudor has removed the date window positioned at 3 o'clock, as well as the chapter ring that previously encroached on the indices. Instead, four clean lines of text replace the chapter ring. The dial showcases a black sunray satin finish with a sandblasted flange, accompanied by Tudor's iconic snowflake. All indices markers are crafted from a monobloc luminescent ceramic composite, and generously applied luminescent paint in a vibrant blue hue enhances visibility in low-light conditions. The dial's simplicity harmonizes with the watch's overall design, giving whoever will wear it an elegant, timeless look. It's also worth noting that the luminescence may display slight inconsistencies, with certain areas glowing brighter and longer than others.